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MATERIAL MATTERS

Extend Family

Driving, Milk Tea, Ger, and Cashmere in Mongolia
On the road to say hi to the Nomadic Community

豊かな水と牧草を求めて遊牧を続けながら、「繊維の宝石」と称されるカシミヤを育てる生産者たち。
私たちは彼らに挨拶をするために、モンゴルの首都ウランバートルを抜け、片道900kmの旅に出ました。
幾度も表情を変える雄大な自然、冠水した道路、何度もパンクするタイヤ...。
そうしてたどり着いたのは、遊牧民たちが暮らすゴビ砂漠。
これは1着のニットがAURALEEのお店に並ぶまでの始まりの物語です。

Creative Direction by kontakt
Photography and Cinematography by Atsuki Ito
Video Editing by Hazuki
Sound Operation by Toru Kemori
Music by maya ongaku
Text by Mikiya Matsushita (kontakt)

カシミヤヤギを育てる遊牧民たちに、これからも希少なカシミヤの原毛を分けてもらえるよう挨拶をするため、モンゴルの首都ウランバートルから彼らの住むゴビ砂漠を目指します。片道16時間という長距離移動の中で、ビルが立ち並ぶウランバートルの街並みは、あたり一面の地平線へと変わり、緑の豊かな丘、岩や地層が剥き出しの山岳地帯と、車窓は表情豊かなモンゴルの自然を映し出します。道中の半分以上は、普通車では走れないような道なき道。現地ドライバーの経験を頼りにランドクルーザーを走らせると、遊牧民たちが暮らす「牧草がまばらに生えた」ゴビ砂漠にたどり着きます。日照時間の長いモンゴルの夕暮れ時、広大な砂漠の地平線をグラデーションの空が包み込む幻想的な光景が私たちを出迎えてくれました。

その希少性と肌触りの良さから「繊維の宝石」とも呼ばれるカシミヤ。AURALEEにとっては、コットンやウールと並び、こだわりを持って大切にしている原料のひとつです。中でもAURALEEが定番で使用するのは、表面がなめらかなキューティクルに覆われたベビーカシミヤ。

繊維の太さを表すμ(マイクロン)で見ると、ウールが約25μなのに対して、カシミヤは約15μ、ベビーカシミヤは約13μと他の繊維に比べても、繊細でとても柔らかい繊維であることが分かります。生後1年に満たないカシミヤヤギから1度だけ採れる希少な原料は、肌に直接触れた時のトロトロの質感と、上品な光沢が特徴。長く着用するほどに体に馴染み、まるであたたかい空気をまとっているかのようです。

「上質なカシミヤニットは気を使わずに着るのが贅沢で、着古してもどことなく品があります。素肌に触れた時に感じますが、許されることなら毎日だって着ていたいくらい気持ちいいんです。」
デザイナーの岩井もカシミヤへの愛を語ります。

「みなさんが日本からここへ雨を運んできてくれました、ありがとうございます」

にこやかに私たちを出迎え、モンゴル流の焼きそばを振る舞ってくれたのは、カシミヤヤギを育てる遊牧民のサンギドリジ・バヤラーさん。私たちが訪れた日は、彼らにとっては「恵みの」雨が降る日でした。

「いいカシミヤを育てるコツですか?いい土地で生活をすることです。カシミヤヤギにとってのいい環境、つまり豊富な水と牧草がある場所を求めて、私たち家族はこの夏だけで10回の引越しをしました。ひとくくりに豊富な牧草と言っても、あまりにヤギが太ってしまうと繊維も太くなってしまうので、栄養価の高い牧草が頭数に適した量あるのが理想です。こうして、草や水、天候のことばかり考えながら生活していると、私たちは自然の一部なのだと強く感じます。雨に恵まれ、緑の豊かな夏を過ごし、ヤギたちが元気に育つことが私たちにとっては、何よりも幸せなことなんです」

今回はAURALEEにとって3度目となるカシミヤの生産者を訪ねる旅。圧倒されてしまうほどスケールの大きな自然やその自然と共存しながらシンプルな生活を営む遊牧民たち、そしてモンゴルの伝統でもあるあたたかい歓迎と、彼らが振る舞う新鮮な肉料理や乳製品。数年ぶりに訪れた地で、変わらずそこにあり続けるものに感謝をしながら、岩井はあらためて遠く離れたモンゴルを訪れる理由を話します。

「先週までファッションウィークでパリに行っていたんです。ショーはものづくりの一番最後にくる、お披露目の場。その翌週にこうして、ものづくりの一番最初に戻って、次のコレクションについて考え始められるのは恵まれています。

実際に生産者の方と話すと、カシミヤがどれだけ特別か実感できますし、ものづくりにも熱がこもります。初めてここに来る前と後の洋服では、きっと着てくれる方には伝わる些細な変化があったと思うんです。だから今回は、ひと目でわかるような大きな発見はなくても、より細やかな変化を見つけ、新たな気付きを感じ取らなくてはいけません。それは原毛のちょっとした触り心地の変化かもしれませんし、夏の光による色の見え方の違いかもしれません。映画監督の小津安二郎やホン・サンスが題材にするのは、いつでも普遍的な日常ですが、作品ごとに違った見せ方や物語がありますよね。その日にはその日にしかない特別なものがあるはず、そういった気付きをものづくりに活かせるようになりたいですね」

寒暖差の大きい地域で育つカシミヤヤギの体は、外側に生える硬い差し毛と内側の柔らかいうぶ毛によって守られています。寒い季節を超えると自然に抜け落ちるうぶ毛だけを、大きなクシを使って集める遊牧民たち。そして、彼らから分け与えてもらった原毛はウランバートルにある整理工場へと向かいます。厳しい環境に順応してきたカシミヤヤギのうぶ毛は、夏は涼しく冬はあたたかい奇跡のような素材。

洗浄と乾燥を繰り返す機械と、そこから出る蒸気と轟音。機械と職人が手を合わせるように丁寧に、ゆっくりと時間をかけてようやく、スライバーと呼ばれる糸になる前の状態になります。遊牧民の元で見た、油分が多く不純物の混ざったワイルドな原毛は、工場での工程を経て、雲に触れるかのように軽く、フワフワと柔らかいカシミヤになります。

その後に続く染色、紡績、編み立て、縫製や加工...一着のニットは、ゴビ砂漠の遊牧民たちから始まり、いくつもの工程、何人もの職人の手を経て、ようやくAURALEEのお店に並んでいます。

Extend Family

Driving, Milk Tea, Ger, and Cashmere in Mongolia
On the road to say hi to the Nomadic Community

Cashmere producers maintain their nomadic lifestyle in search of abundant water and pasture grass, while making cashmere, known as the ‘jewel of fibres'. To meet them, we embarked on a 900 km journey from the capital of Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar, through the ever-changing and majestic natural landscape of the country. After many flooded roads and car tires punctures, we eventually reached the Gobi Desert, where the nomads welcomed us. This marks the beginning of the story about how a single piece of knitwear makes its way to Auralee stores.

Creative Direction by kontakt
Photography and Cinematography by Atsuki Ito
Video Editing by Hazuki
Sound Operation by Toru Kemori
Music by maya ongaku
Text by Mikiya Matsushita (kontakt)

From Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, our destination was the Gobi Desert. Our goal was to meet the nomads who raise cashmere goats, hoping that they will continue to share their rare raw cashmere wool with us. During the 16-hour journey, the rows of buildings that define the cityscape of Ulaanbaatar gradually receded into the horizon, and the captivating nature of Mongolia—from lush green hills, to rugged mountain terrain with exposed rocks and strata—reflected on the window of the car. More than half of the journey took us along unpaved roads that regular cars could not drive through. Relying on the experience of a local driver, our Land Cruiser transported us to the 'sparsely grassed' Gobi Desert, where the nomads live. As dusk settled in during this period of extended daylight hours in Mongolia, we were greeted by the enchanting sight of a gradient sky enveloping the vast desert horizon.

Cashmere, often referred to as the ‘jewel of fibres’ due to its rarity and delightful texture, is particularly cherished at Auralee, alongside cotton and wool. Auralee also uses baby cashmere, known for its smooth cuticle surface.

The thickness of fibres is denoted as μ (microns). Wool measures about 25μ, cashmere around 15μ, and baby cashmere approximately 13μ. This comparison highlights that baby cashmere is an exceptionally fine and soft fibre. This rare material can only be harvested once from cashmere goats under one year old. It is renowned for its silky texture and elegant sheen. With time, it becomes even more comfortable to wear, almost as if it envelops the body in warm air.

Designer Iwai also expresses his deep affection for cashmere, stating, ‘High-quality cashmere knitwear is a luxury that can be effortlessly worn and maintains its elegance even after a long time. You can truly feel it when it touches your skin. It could be worn every day because it feels so delightful.’

‘Thank you for bringing the rain from Japan with you.’

Mr. Sangidorj Bayraa, a nomadic cashmere goat breeder, welcomed us with a smile and served us Mongolian-style fried noodles. The day we visited happened to be a day of ‘blessed’ rain for them.

‘What's the secret to raising high-quality cashmere? It's about living in the right place. For cashmere goats, that means finding a location with the following conditions: abundant water and pasture. Our family has moved 10 times just this summer in search of the perfect environment for cashmere goats. When we talk about abundant pasture, it's not just about quantity; if the goats become too fat, the fibres also become thicker. We need to have nutritious pasture in the right amount for the size of our herd. Through this lifestyle, where we continually think about the grass, water, and the weather, we deeply connect with nature. Nothing brings us greater happiness than being blessed with rain, enjoying a lush green summer, and watching our goats grow healthily.’

This journey marked the third time Auralee visited their cashmere producers. It was filled with awe-inspiring natural landscapes, encounters with nomadic herders who lead simple lives while coexisting with nature, warm hospitality, which is a tradition in Mongolia, and the fresh meat dishes and dairy products generously offered by them. Returning here after several years, Iwai expressed his gratitude for these enduring elements and once again shared the reasons for visiting this distant land, Mongolia.

‘I was in Paris until last week for Fashion Week. The fashion show is the culmination of the creative process, a moment of revelation. It's fortunate that the week after, I can return to the very beginning of the creative process and start thinking about the next collection.

When I have direct conversations with the producers, I can truly grasp how special cashmere is. There is passion in their craftsmanship. I believe there have been subtle changes before and after my first visit here—changes that people who wear our clothes can sense. So, even though there might not be any major obvious discoveries this time, it is important for me to notice the more delicate changes and seek new insights. It might be a slight difference in the feel of the raw wool, or how the colours appear differently in the summer light. Film directors like Yasujiro Ozu and Hong Sang-soo often focus on common everyday life, but each of their works offers a unique perspective and story. There's something special about each day, and I aspire to harness these small realisations in my creative process.’

Cashmere goats that thrive in regions with extreme temperature variations, are protected by their coarse guard hairs on the outside and soft down hairs on the inside. Nomadic herders use large combs to collect only the down hairs that naturally shed when the cold season passes. The raw cashmere they collect is then sent to a sorting facility in Ulaanbaatar. Cashmere goat down, which has adapted to harsh environments, is a miraculous material that provides warmth in winter and coolness in summer.

The machines used for cleaning and drying emits steam and roaring noises. Like a meticulous collaboration between machinery and artisans, it takes time for the raw cashmere to reach the state before it becomes yarn, known as ‘sliver’. The wild raw cashmere, rich in oil and mixed with impurities, as seen at the camps of nomadic herders, undergoes a transformation into a lightweight, fluffy, and soft cashmere that feels like clouds during the manufacturing process at the factory.

The subsequent steps include dyeing, spinning, knitting, sewing, and final processing… From the nomadic herders in the Gobi Desert, through various processes and the hands of numerous artisans, a single piece of knitwear finally makes its way to Auralee stores.

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